Manila’s dining set will soon descend and weigh upon the offerings at FOO’D by Chef Davide Oldani at High Street Park, Shangri-la at the Fort, in Bonifacio Global City. It opened just last Saturday, Dec 3, 2016.
The restaurant is conceptualized by Chef Oldani, an Italian one-star Michelin chef, and is brought in to Manila by Eric Dee, president of Foodee Global Concepts. It was Dee who convinced Oldani to open in Manila, his first overseas project.
It reflects Oldani’s philosophy of “pop cuisine,” which transforms simple—and ideally seasonal—ingredients with techniques of high gastronomy, allowing him to offer dishes strikingly affordable prices. Because seasonality doesn’t exist in the Philippines the way it does in Italy, some of the ingredients are sourced from Spain, Holland, US, or New Zealand.
The menu currently offers 18 of Oldani’s most representative dishes, which have achieved great distinction for texture, contrast, and subtly accented flavors.
Diners will have shrimp tartares, wagyu beef and veal cheeks, and Chilean seabass to choose from, as well as comforting pasta dishes like Cacio e Pepe (pecorino cheese and freshly cracked pepper), or creamy marsala and pea risottos.
There’s the humble but stunning Cipolla Caramellata (or Caramelized Onion), a tuile-encased onion cooked to gentle sweetness and garnished with Grana Padano cheese ice cream and warm Grana Padano sauce; as well as the Iberico Pork Ribs, served with an intensely reduced wine and porcini sauce and a delicate topping of breadcrumbs, liquorice, and muscovado sugar.
But it is the dessert selection that will prove hard to resist. The dense dark chocolate mousse combined with crumbled cacao, raspberry powder, and a fine dark chocolate ice cream is a dream, but it was a lemon curd dessert, with dehydrated meringue that popped in the mouth with their crunch, paired with an intensely green lettuce gelato, that proved much more memorable.
FOO’D’s sophisticated black and white interiors with metallic accents are patterned after Oldani’s restaurant named D’O, a stylish fifty-pax operation famed for its 32 euro lunch menu located in Milan’s suburban town of Cornaredo, less than 15 km from the city.
The BGC restaurant also accommodates fifty, with an optional partition for groups of twenty. It has three- or four-course options that start at P800 and P1,200 for lunch and dinner—way cheaper than in Milan.
Depending on what is selected (what appetizer, risotto or pasta, what main dish, or dessert), the meal for one person can come to P3,000-P4,000, exclusive of drinks, which ranges from cocktails and spirits, Italian wines, and champagne.
Although currently they offer diners a three- or four-course selection, we hope—that is to say, market sentiment, time, and resources permitting—that they will consider offering five and seven courses perhaps for dinner, like at the upcoming Singapore branch of FOO’D, also opening this month.
FOO’D by Davide Oldani in Manila is the latest of Eric Dee’s restaurant projects under Foodee Global Concepts, which brought in Todd English and Tim Ho Wan to the Philippines, and recently unveiled Sunnies Cafe in BGC and Mega Fashion Hall at Ortigas Center. Chef Oldani will visit southeast Asia in January to grace the official opening of FOO’D at Bonifacio Global City as well as in Singapore.
FOO’D by Davide Oldani, High Street Park, Shangri-la at the Fort, 30th St. corner 5th Ave., BGC, Taguig. +632 9508492. Lunch welcomes walk-in diners and reservations, while dinner will be scheduled in two seatings at 6 and 8 p.m.
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